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A traditional ramen is made with a dashi, which is broth made by steeping kombu (edible kelp) an katsuobushi flakes (preserved and fermented tuna) and straining the resulting liquid. I’ve never found kosher katsuobushi, never mind being able to use it in a fleishig stock, and my grocery store stopped stocking kombu, but there are plenty of other umami sources in this stock, so you won’t even miss them. The beef fry seems a bit out of left field, but it imparts a distinct smokiness that really brings this to another level. I make a huge pot of broth and freeze into individual portions for a quick and easy meal.
1 package beef neck bones, around 1 and 1/2 pounds (680 grams)
1 package chicken bones, around 1 and 1/2 pounds (680 grams)
1 ounce (30 grams) dried mushrooms (shiitake are best, but any variety will do)
1 whole head garlic
1 2-inch (5-centimeter) piece fresh ginger, peeled
2 shallots, peeled
2 carrots, peeled
6 scallions, trimmed
1/2 cup Glicks Soy Sauce
4 ounces (110 grams) beef fry
salt, to taste
3-4 packages ramen noodles, cooked to package instructions, seasoning packet discarded
sliced scallions
shredded beef or chicken
soft-boiled eggs
sauteed wild mushrooms
sauteed Napa cabbage
Preheat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit (200 degrees Celsius). Lay the chicken and beef bones on a baking sheet and roast until deeply browned, turning once halfway, about 40 minutes.
Meanwhile, reconstitute the dried mushrooms in a stockpot with four cups water over medium-low heat.
When the bones are browned, add them to the mushrooms, including any juices that may have collected in the bottom of the pan. Add in garlic, ginger, shallots, carrots, scallions, soy sauce, and beef fry or pastrami. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil, then lower to a very gentle simmer for at least four to six hours, or up to 12 hours. Skim the surface every hour or so, and add cold water as necessary if the water evaporates.
Strain the broth, then add salt as necessary to taste.
Place the ramen noodles and other add-ins in a deep bowl, then pour broth over it.
Photography: Hudi Greenberger Styling: Renee Muller
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